Founded in 2019, A. Roege Hove is a Copenhagen-based conceptual knitwear designer that has carved out its own space as one of the most coveted brands, accompanied by Woolmark’s prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation in 2023 and the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize in 2022. With its unique and innovative use of materials, where mastering techniques lead to unexpected shapes through knitwear and transparencies, A. Roege Hove evokes a feminine sensibility that is still raw and effortless.
For the eponymous label’s second show, the new AW25 collection hits the runway at Copenhagen Fashion Week, featuring Swedish Stockings. Our brand creative, Beatriz, and Amalie sat down to discuss shared values and synergies.
IN FOCUS: YARN, SHAPE, EXPRESSION
Beatriz: As a brand specialized in legwear, Swedish Stockings’ collections are founded on its material ability and versatility whether made of recycled nylon or natural materials. The pieces take their form from different bodies that dress them and are enhanced by styling and individual self-expression. Hosiery, much like your garments, is designed to be both functional and aesthetic. How do you balance functionality and aesthetics through knitwear in your own designs?
Amalie: For me, inspiration can come from many different sources, and functionality is often one of them. I think there's an interesting space between those two - functionality and aesthetics - where design becomes even more relevant. For our AW25 collection, we had small details like a tie as a closure mechanism for a top and dress, and those came from the need for an adjustable closure.
Beatriz: You create a material that has a life of its own. On the hanger, it looks one way, but on the body, it transforms into something completely different, varying its fit depending on the person wearing it. Malleable and stretchy fabric takes on the body’s natural shape in a sculptural manner or reveals it through a play on layering and transparency. For you, what is the potential of this versatility in the creation of your garments?
Amalie: I think and hope that this transformation allows the watcher or wearer to imagine different ways to wear it, style it, and incorporate it into their everyday lives. For me, this transformation is a source of inspiration for how we work with different knitted techniques and various bodies and shapes.
Beatriz: Hosiery is often seen as a separate part of fashion. In your AW25 collection, we begin to see the incorporation of your staple knitwork into tight pieces. How do you think that perception can be changed, bridging the gap between legwear and fashion and introducing it as an essential element in a look?
Amalie: For me, hosiery is a piece of clothing. Its relevance and effect on a look are so defining that I see it as integral.
IN FOCUS: MATERIAL INNOVATION, KNITTING TECHNIQUES
Beatriz: We know you’re always improving production and making the most out of the techniques at hand, for example, working toward seamless knitwear to improve products for the user while being responsible. Can you tell us about any unique or unconventional materials you have, or wish to experiment with, in future collections to expand this technique?
Amalie: Of course, we always want to explore new innovations in yarns and materials. For our last collection, we focused heavily on natural materials, and I think there is beauty in building the collections around that.
Beatriz: While we are constantly exploring new, sustainable fibers and production techniques to improve durability, you challenge traditions through an experimental and intuitive approach to traditional knitwear techniques. What can we learn from each other in combining functionality, innovation, and aesthetics in sustainable fashion?
Amalie: I think for me, I thrive in a craft where I see very few limitations. With the machines in my studio, I operate with the mantra that nothing is off-limits or incorrect, though of course, I take good care of the machines. I imagine, and this is without fully knowing, that there are limitations to what a hosiery machine can process in terms of yarns and structures. However, that’s also the beauty of it - it forces improvement within a niche.
IN FOCUS: RESPONSIBLE PRODUCTION, SUSTAINABILITY
Beatriz: We believe that longevity is the greatest form of luxury, ensuring our products have the longest possible lifecycle. On A. Roege Hove’s Responsibility Plan, set in 2023, you list minimum waste, upcycling and reworking, versatile design, and craftsmanship. Based on those pillars, how do you ensure that your designs contribute to a longer lifecycle for the garment, both now and in the future of the brand?
Amalie: I agree that longevity is the greatest form of luxury - as well as the most responsible way. For me, working with iterations in terms of all our pillars is the best way of ensuring we are improving each season while also staying skeptical about how and why we do what we do.
Beatriz: Responsible production and consumption are at the core of Swedish Stockings’ values, inspiring us to own fewer, but better, pieces that can last a longer lifecycle—a simple sustainable choice. As a fashion designer, you also steer away from overproduction and overconsumption, encouraging consumers to treasure the garments they own and tap into the versatility of your unique designs. How do you approach consumer education in your collections, creating an environment for more conscious consumption?
Amalie: It’s definitely a balance, and I think the best we can do is keep showing the relevance of all our pieces. We don’t work with a very seasonal focus—instead, we see all our pieces being combined and styled together for many different women, across years.
